Stop 10: Cortez CO

A short drive day in my mind, Pagosa Springs to Mesa Verde is the same corner of the state. But still we spent all day traipsing around, and we skipped Durango!

We started off by driving back to where we mountain biked yesterday afternoon, where we left the step stool we bought to make it easier for Sharon to get into the sliding door. Alas, it disappeared. On the outskirts of Pagosa is a Walmart, so we bought a new one, and a new NutriBullet, since Sharon's stopped working, and she needs her smoothie in the morning. Is it a coincidence that it stopped working the first morning she added kale?

Anyway, we proceeded west towards Durango, but turned when I saw the sign for Chimney Rock. I've driven from the Front Range of CO to Durango or Farmington countless times, and never paid attention to this national monument along the way. We arrived just in time to go on the hour long guided tour.

It turns out Chimney Rock isn't just a cool pair of rocks. It also was a special spot for the ancient Pueblans. It seems the rocks alignment is such that Moonlight shines through on the full moon of the 18-year peak of the moon's secondary orbit. So the ancient Pueblans built this whole town downmoon of it. Hot place to be every 18 years. IAC, the hike was a lot of fun and the information interesting and the views sweet.

After lunch down a forest access road, we stopped at Mesa Verde to make reservations for tomorrow, filled up the tank, and checked in at Kelly's Place, a B&B with RV spaces. Sharon was sold by the free breakfast. It turns out she made an awesome choice. After checking in and plugging in, we went to the courtyard for wine and cheese, a delightful way to reflect on the day. Then we went on a lovely hike on the property, to the many archeological ruins right here. Very impressive. Dinner as the light fades, no bugs, and a piece of chocolate (Sharon doles carefully).

While we were driving, Sharon sewed phone holders for us. Our phones were overheating sitting on the dash, so we needed a better location. These are perfect, easy to manage, and hold our phones securely.

Pictures are here.

Day 2

We woke up around 6am, the chill in the air not an issue. We were warm in our bed, and the comforter and a blanket kept us toasty through the night. It got down to 41, but it was a Dry 41. We didn't use the ceramic heater, the sun when we stepped outside was disturbingly comfortable, like a global conspiracy to hide the cool temperature.

First off a delicious and delightful breakfast with the other patrons of Kelly Place, and then we drove back to Mesa Verde. Before our guided tour, we drove the Mesa Top Loop. It consists of driving a one way road and parking on the painted side every 1/4 mile or so, and getting out and looking at whatever is at that stop. Everything was an ancestral Pueblan, be it kiva, pit,... Whatever. What was impressive to me was the structures the park service created to protect these archeological ruins, a sturdy metal roof spanning the entire kiva (or...), With hurricane shutters to protect it from whatever direction is needed. It's heartening that at least they got the money to protect this history.

After lunch at a day use site (99% were unused, which made it dreamy), we roamed through the museum, gleaning Knowledge that drips off of us for a day or so. (My favorite from the Visitors Center was that Mesa Verde isn't really a mesa (flat topped), it's angled 6° to the South so crops grow better than off the "cruesta" ((I already forgot the term))).

At Noon we met up with a ranger, along with another 40 soon-to-be friends, for the Balcony House tour. Step 1: climb down lots stairs. Step 2: climb a frickin tall ladder. Step 3: tour the ancient dwellings and listen to more Knowledge. Then climb through a really narrow passageway and climb two more ladders to finish. Lots of adrenaline, people will love it, and maybe retain some of the Knowledge! Actually, a pretty good approach.

We followed the house tour with a museum walk-through and a 2.7 mile hike through a canyon. With lots of elevation changes it was a good workout and a beautiful stroll. It was the trail less taken, so we didn't see another soul on the trail, and the scenery was wonderful.

Returning to Kelly Place we enjoyed cocktails in the shade and soft breeze of the courtyard, where we met up with our new friends Patrick and Dixie.

Pictures are here.