Tortuga Travelers
A blog about our Mercedes Benz Sprinter van, in pictures, thoughts, and impressions.
Monday, January 21, 2019
Super Wolf Blood Moon
The Mayport Ferry wants $20 to carry Ernie across the St. Johns River, so we made the drive over the Dames Point Bridge and up Heckscher Drive to Huguenot. The weather was sunny, cold and blustery, and the crosswinds on the bridge made us have second thoughts about the worth of the Ferry, but the Mercedes stabilization software kept the drive manageable, and Heckscher is a lovely drive. We got there early Sunday afternoon, bundled ourselves up and went for a walk in the park.
The tide was out, and the beaches were huge. The chill winds kept everyone sane far away, though watching a couple of kite surfers in the lagoon was fun. Huguenot took a hard hit from Hurricane Michael and had to close for many months, and even now it isn't back to its former self. None of the campsites have power or water, and the number of sites is far fewer than a couple of years earlier. The good news is construction is underway to build new roads in the park, and perhaps provide a challenge for this year's hurricanes. The park's dunes are protected for nesting birds, and they fared much better than the pavement. We walked for over five miles along the Atlantic Ocean beach, the lagoon side of the dunes, and the north shore of the St. Johns River where our campsite overlooked the Mayport Naval Station.
Returning to Ernie, we started to get ready for a long night waiting for first sunset and then the eclipse. We were ready for temps near freezing overnight, and were hoping the winds would ease up when the Sun went down. We had an additional run on the floor to provide a bit more protection from underneath, and we had Reflectix for the windows that didn't already have a barrier. We couldn't use our ceramic electric heater because it draws more current than our inverter wants to provide.
Dinner was our first big test for our latest gear. The batteries got an A+. I was concerned about our inverter being able to deliver power at its rated 1500 watts, and they came through. We bought an electric skillet for Ernie, and it put a strong load on our Relion batteries, but they delivered all the power it wanted, and we had a delicious piece of salmon cooked to perfection. Plugging in a skillet is easier than screwing in a propane cannister, and its easier to cook in than our fry pan over the Coleman burner.
Later in the evening, the electric blanket got an F. It worked for a few minutes, but when it came time to start warming our bed, it played dead. And stayed dead. It proved to be totally worthless, so we resorted to our back-up plan of blankets and sleeping bags. We have new, wonderful sheets that have a high threadcount that we were looking to enjoy, and we were able to.
We downloaded some stuff from Netflix to the Slate, and we were able to watch comfortably under the warm covers. The keyboard gave the screen sufficient stability so I didn't have to hold it between us, and the speakers provided good stereo. After an episode of Tidelands, we ventured outside to sit in our lawn chairs to watch the eclipse. The winds let up a bit, and Ernie provided an adequate barrier, but the cold kept it from being comfortable. And we're not used to staying up past midnight! But it was impressive to watch the full moon get progressively darker and redder. But the cold and late hour finally got the better of us, and we skipped the latter half of the eclipse.
In the morning, it was cold, just a couple of degrees above freezing, and we weren't interested in having breakfast in the cold. We survived the evening, got lots of nice pictures, and could find a warm house less than an hour's drive away!
Pictures from our one night stand are at https://photos.app.goo.gl/iTGHbtqAE6cWXMv26
Thursday, January 10, 2019
NewYearsTrip: Jonathan Dickinson SP
We arrived at Jonathan Dickinson State Park around after a leisurely drive up the Turnpike from the Everglades with no reservations. The woman who met us at the gate wasn’t pleased with us. We asked if they were full, and her response was there already were three other groups waiting for a site to open up, the implication being that Slim just left town. She also said that we checkin wasn’t until 3pm, but we could park in the adjacent lot until then. So we parked and I wandered over to the office to confirm her dour pronouncements. We could easily head to another park, or even just drive home, if need be.
The ranger in the office had a different take on the world, and gave us a site immediately, down by the river. We took it for a day, but he said we just had to come back the next morning to extend our stay if we wanted. (Which we did, as it turned out.) He gave me some maps of the paved and unpaved trails, and mentioned in passing that he used to live on Lassie Black just outside of White Springs when he worked at Oleno SP!
The campsites in the river campground are fairly close together, but each has power and water, and the bathrooms have hot showers and are quite clean. We set up our screen tent, but it proved to be inadequate keeping the noseeums at bay as the Sun set.
Camp Murphy is the name of the mountain bike trail system in the park. It is a few mile ride back to the trails, and some of the trails are delightful: e limed gravel with well bermed sweeping turns, a narrow trail through the scrub dunes with nice use of the scant elevation differences. The first trail, Tortoise, is perfect for starting a ride, a warm up with nothing too difficult, flowy enough to get your speed and comfort level up without any scares. It flows into Ranger, which is also well maintained and offers a slightly more challenging trail of hard packed surface. As the trails continue, though, they lapse into soft sand that is challenging to power through. The obstacles start off as whoop-de-dos and wooden breaks across the trail for erosion protection, and pavers and wood paths to scoot past sand, but later trails have more limestone rock gardens, palmetto roots that seem groomed to provide challenge, and deep sand that makes you long for 5” tires to get through. They have their own version of Ocala’s Vortex, Bunker Hill, which discretion kept us far from. It looked from a distance to be well over my head for riding.
We woke up chilly! The inside of Ernie was cooler than outside, but still, it was nice to need the blankets for cuddly comfort. Once roused, we rode to the front gate to extend our stay, and then rode more of Camp Murphy. We tried to avoid the sand traps, and somewhat succeeded. We started on trails that were new to us, and they had some pretty sandy slogs, along with nicely bermed and prepared trail, including a 6 hill whoop-de-do. We re-rode our favorites before hopping on a service road to avoid the less fun parts.
We rode to the Lookout, a glorious 86’ view, tallest point in that part of Florida!, with views of the Atlantic, the ICW, and the sand pine scrub prairie and forest that is Jonathan Dickinson. I was impressed by how much land is undeveloped, the park really is quite large. After lunch we wandered over to the Visitor’s Center and its displays of the history of this part of Florida. I was also tempted by the Free WiFi, but it turned out to be worth every penny, it didn’t offer internet. C’est la vie.
Pictures of Jonathan Dickinson, and a few of Blue Spring, are at https://photos.app.goo.gl/vZqVthe1SKLEThJ5A
NewYearsTrip: Everglades NP
After being directed to the very limited space for vehicles with trailers (maybe one more of my length could fit in front of me), we broke out the bikes and went for the 15 mile ride. Shark Valley is an Everglades National Park Visitor Center that has a 15 mile tram tour to view the natural beauty of the River of Grass. The tram winds South through the grasses and hammocks and marshes to the Overlook, a structure that elegantly rises above the fray. From the Overlook, the paved path returns in a fairly straight line back to the Visitor Center along a canal, home to a plethora of birds and . It comes at the second half of the trip, and makes for a great finale. I'm confident that the tour guides do an excellent job providing information and excitement about this beautiful natural resource. There is also a bike rental, but bikes and walkers are suggested to walk counterclockwise towards the clockwise-running trams. This allows walkers to see the best without venturing too far.
And it was divine. A beautiful day, a head wind for the first 7 miles, and a tail wind for the 8 mile return - Perfect! The birds were out preening in the morning sun, and the alligators were just awaking, with most not yet settled into their afternoon rest spots. So we got to watch many gators slowly swimming along the canal to their chosen sunning spots. One particularly large gator had caught something, but exactly what it was in life was unclear. It looked like he had bitten into big bag of laundry, with most of it beside his jaw. But the parts that looked like feathers suggested a big heron or the like. In any case he shook it and slammed it on the water a couple of times while I was watching, which was a pretty intimidating display of force, though completely lost on the target of his energy.
The viewpoint 7+ miles in is pretty impressive. You walk up a 50 yard circular walkway for a 30’ high view, and everywhere is Everglades, in all its resplendent glory and starkness. The ride back from there was a delight as the (now) tailwind strengthened, and we flew back, only stopping for roseate spoonbill sightings (and bigger gators, and wood storks, and …).
Pictures from Shark Valley are at https://photos.app.goo.gl/fdLqWMiZwooRpVDo7.
Leaving the park, the parking lot was full, and the lane in was completely backed up with cars wanting to park. Likely four cars got in with our leaving. We then headed East, stopping at a gas station with diesel, a Publix, and Roberts Is Here fruitstand, finally stopping at Flamingo Campground. We were surprised that someone was working the campground booth; no one was at the Park entrance, because of the president’s government shutdown. 95 volunteers are doing their best to keep this Park and a few others in South Florida open. They have access to the reservation system, and they are keeping the bathrooms open. Kudos to them!
Flamingo is a huge campground. There is Loop A and the Loop T. (Actually there is also Loop B, but it is un-mowed, and doesn’t look like anyone has used it for a few years.) Loop A is where we’ve stayed in years past; the sites have no electricity or water, but nice bathrooms with flush toilets and cold showers. The Loop T (trailer) sites have electricity (20, 30, and 50 amp) but no water at the sites, and the same nice bathrooms with flush toilets with cold showers. Both campgrounds are pretty much open fields with a few mahogany trees. But they are the southernmost point of mainland Florida, right on Florida Bay, just a paddle from the Keys to the South (and countless islands of the 10,000 Islands).
Flamingo also is at least 10 miles from the nearest chance of any cell service. And no Wi-Fi anywhere. You are off the net: no cell phone, no email, no text, no data. Rumor has it AT&T phones have a signal here, but we didn't see anyone staring at their phone screen.
Flamingo may not have electronic communication but it does have flying tactile communicators in the form of noseeums and mosquitoes. They aren’t as bad as they could be. A volunteer suggested that the reason there were so few mosquitoes was that last Fall's Hurricane Irma covered their eggs with marl (seagrass blown in by the storm, which then turns to a muddy surface). Uh, maybe.
We slept til dawn, then I assembled by Canon 5D3 with its 100-400 lens, and lit off on our bikes to Eco Pond, less than a mile ride. The plan was to photograph wood storks and roseate spoonbills and all manner of herons and egrets. Eco Pond has been my favorite photographic destination for roseates for over a decade. Alas, most everyone was a noshow except for the mosquitoes, so my photoshoot became a slow pedal around the pond. The times I stopped the flying teeth descended so quickly I found being picky about my photo ops to be the savvy way to go. It just wasn't worth it.
After a relaxed breakfast, we decided to ride our bikes to the Marina Store to see if they sold Everglades stickers for Ernie’s wall. They had several, and Sharon limited herself. We checked out the canal’s boat ramp for a possible excursion tomorrow; Then we headed up the road for a bit of exercise.
Fifteen miles later we now know that there’s a bike friendly trail that looked great initially but devolved into mud and marl soon enough and long enough to dissuade these geezers; that our put-in point from years ago in a canoe is still there, with a resident green heron or two; that there’s a rookery just off the road in the mangroves that has an impressive number of roseates and black tipped egrets; and that Bear Lake is a fun 2.5 mile trail from the road that is bike friendly, but the final 1.6 aren’t.
After lunch we set out again, this time on the kayaks, and paddled westward against a strong wind. We were near high tide so we weren’t worried about how shallow Florida Bay is. The shore mangroves offered a welcome windbreak, because across Flamingo’s open beachfront and farther away from the coast the paddle was much more onerous. We planned to circle a particular island, but the northwest side’s waves and wind proved a bit more than would be fun, so we headed back on the lee side of it and the next four islands before heading back to port at record speed.
Epiphany! Twelve days after Christmas, and celebrated as the day the Magi arrived and gave presents to the baby Jesus of gold, frankensense, and myrhh. And the final verse of the song, 12 Days of Christmas.
Sharon’s plan was to get up before dawn for sunrise pictures. An advantage of Flamingo’s location at the tip of the Florida peninsula is that the Sun rises and sets over water, the Atlantic and the Gulf. But the weather was chilly, and our bed proved to be too comfortable. Sanity prevailed for once.
When we did get up, we agreed on a hike that we chose not to do on our bikes the previous day. It is a 2.5 mile hike to the coast, and while they claimed it was mountain bike accessible, there was a lot more reasons not to ride it than the initial mud and marl that turned us off yesterday. Today we left the bikes at the beginning of the single track, and started hiking with our hiking boots and long sleeved pants and shirts.
And we needed them all. We had to climb through several trees that blocked the path, and navigate through the vines and downed trees hidden by the underbrush. We hiked less than a mile before realizing we didn’t want to do this for 5 miles. A slog without a worthy payoff. So we cut the hike short, and rode back to the campground. It was still a 10 mile bike ride and a couple mile hike, so lunch tasted good. Afterwards, when the tide was in, we took another paddle in Florida Bay, with less wind and a different direction. (Florida Bay, the water between the southern tip of Florida's mainland and the Keys, is really shallow, and during low tides even kayaks need to keep to the narrow channels to avoid bottoming out. Even at high tide a paddle blade can stir up the bottom.)
This morning Sharon did wake up early enough to catch Sunrise. After coffee and cereal, we left the campground, but stopped at Royal Palm for a quick tour with my Canon. The birds are so beautiful there, as are the gators, and often the juxtapositions are lovely. Beside the boardwallk there is another walk through the forest, and while it is a lovely stroll, we didn’t think there would be any photo ops that would be worthwhile.
Pictures of Flamingo fun are at https://photos.app.goo.gl/QACUmLuGe5bxKLAN8.
NewYearsTrip: Collier Seminole SP
Collier Seminole is about a hundred miles South of Oscar Shearer. There are two main roads in that direction: I-75 and the Tamiami Trail. (The Tamiami Trail is the old road connecting TAMpa with MIAMI. Its construction across the Everglades was an impressive effort, and the route from Naples north is the traffic clogged main drag for every town.) Both parks are on Tamiami, but in between are countless traffic lights trying to rein in the madness of the psychotic drivers inhabiting SW Florida. I-75 is mostly snowbirds and semis and speeders, so we chose the faster route. Between strong winds and trailer of kayaks and 70 mph speeds, Ernie spent the drive never getting more than 16 miles per gallon.
Collier Seminole is outside Marco Island and Naples at the Western end of the single lane portion of the Tamiami Trail across the Everglades. As a State Park, it's unaffected by the current shutdown of National Parks. (Our reservations starting Friday are in Everglades National Park, and that may prove to be a problem.)
Sharon got our reservations here because several of our friends chose to come here for New Years. Dale and Mary, George and Michelle, Mari and Jerry, Sterling and Susan, and Gary and Kathy all arrived just after Christmas.
Being the last to the party, we were heartened that we were welcomed to their New Year's Eve party. A great potluck and games and gift swap, it was a fun time to complete 2018.
We started the new year with a hearty breakfast. George brings his grill and used his grillmaster abilities to cook up potatoes, bacon, sausage and eggs as everyone wants. Yum.
Most of us then gathered and caravanned to Turner River with our kayaks. Turner River is one of my favorite paddles, wending through mangrove tunnels narrow enough that a kayak paddle is too wide to use. And when you break out of the tunnels into a more open area, you usually find alligators sunning. Pictures from the paddle are at https://photos.app.goo.gl/XRFUmto3zBpspxs68
Wednesday morning saw an exodus of many of our friends, with only Dale and Mary staying an extra day. We rode with Dale on the mountain bike trail in the park. No climbing, and we were lucky it hadn't rained recently, so the trail was completely rideable. But short. So we rode it twice. The roots were slippery, so we had to stay alert.
Sharon and I decided to go for a short paddle in the afternoon, but we ended up doing the full loop instead of the out and back I thought we agreed to. It ended up being a 14 mile, four hour paddle, with only one place we could have gotten out for a stretch. The water was high enough in Mud Bay that I only hit bottom once. Sharon scraped a few times on lurking oysters. The tide was going out, so our return paddle was against the current. We tended aching muscles (my hips and legs and back, Sharon's arms and shoulders), but felt better by the next morning.
Pictures from Collier Seminole are at https://photos.app.goo.gl/6q279xbaXcoz7AWa9
Tuesday, January 1, 2019
NewYearsTrip: Oscar Shearer SP
Our meandering from White Springs went South through Lake City and Chiefland and Crystal River and many other towns before we found ourselves in Tampa, driving past a USF campus where Sharon took some classses, and Busch Gardens, where traffic was clearly more concerned about parking lot access. We finally got on I-75 to avoid city traffic, which just isn't fun in a van 24' long with a 20+' trailer.
We arrived at Oscar Shearer just as we finished a book on tape, perfect timing! Their records still had our Volvo from years ago, a nice little memory jog. We were last here in 2011. We drove to our site, but the numbering was confusing, it was later determined Sharon guessed wrong, to the consternation of a later arriving family from Ontario, but not enough consternating for them to want to move to their assigned site from our assigned site. C'est la vie.
We weren't around when they arrived, since we took off on our bikes for a nice ride. We started off on the park's mountain bike trails, but they proved to be an overwhelming slog through endless sugar sand, so when we found the adjacent bike trail, we chose to put in our miles on it. It was a Rails to Trails, as straight and level as the train tracks it replaced. It was a pleasant ride, free of traffic except for a few road crossings,and mostly undeveloped scrublands.
It was too dark to eat outside for dinner, so we ate in Ernie for the first time since the Summer. A after dinner walk around the campground reminded me how crowded this campground really is. Boondocking is much more serene, but perhaps not this trip, as South Florida seems to be the most popular place to be, and there aren't national forests to take advantage of.
Before leaving the next morning, we put our kayaks in at the boat launch area and got in a nice 6 mile paddle. The waterways in the park have a tree canopy and quiet water. When we ventured out to the ICW, the Sunday morning boat traffic was non-existent, and the water mostly calm.
Pictures are at https://photos.app.goo.gl/aGGJ9cXxTkNzNDkZA
Sunday, December 30, 2018
NewYearsTrip: White Springs
The Suwannee is out of its banks. The Okefenokee Swamp is the headwaters of the Suwannee and St. Marys rivers, and it has gotten a lot of rain the past few months, and so the rivers are high. Normally the height in White Springs is around 55', and now it's just under 80'. We drove over on Saturday, taking US-90 for a change (instead of I-10), making the drive over a little more interesting. We got on I-10 for the drive through Osceola NF, a more scenic drive than through Lake City.
Our first stop was Falling Creek SP, for a look at the falls. The tannic water was running strong, where normally at this time of year its often just a trickle. But the height of the water wasn't dramatic or anything.
As we drove into White Springs, though, the Suwannee was another story. Our Gar Pond trail runs beside the road into town, and those woods were completely submerged under several feet of water. The river itself was close to the underside of the railroad bridge. We stopped at Suwannee Bicycle Association headquarters and caught up with Tony, SBA's president. Then we parked Ernie at the house of some other friends who are doing some beautiful work on their new (for them) house. Howard and Joy have done an amazing job, turning a run down cottage into a warm and comfortable home. Sweat equity never looked so good.
While they worked, we took out bikes out for a tour of the town and river. Our pictures from our tour are at https://photos.app.goo.gl/bYrJvvkRk9bB3i3h6. There is a good chance that the river won't recede in January (or even February), putting SBA's 50 mile off-road bike event (IDIDARIDE) in doubt. Its not called IDIDASWIM, and bottom brackets and axle bearings don't like being underwater for long.
After our ride we drove Ernie back to headquarters, where we parked out front for the evening. We had dinner with Howard and Joy and enjoyed the comfort of HQ before they headed back to their house, and we retired to our comfy bed.
We woke and used HQ to heat up some breakfast and coffee, but not long enough to let the fog burn off. I wanted to take the slow road to our next stop, and it was going to be over 5 hours to our next stop along back roads, so we left White Springs with the lights on.
Wednesday, December 19, 2018
Ablation for pain relief
In February of 2016, after too much tests and insurance headaches, Dr. Justin Spooner performed a Radio Frequency Ablation on my lower back, relieving my daily pains completely. It was dramatic, and it was wonderful.
(Side note: I went through the procedure's approval process twice. One of the questions you always get at pain clinics is, How much is your pain, on a scale of 1 to 10? With no defining terms, and having experienced some intense pain over my life, I rated my pain at 4 to 5 the first time around, and my insurance company (Aetna, FWIW) rejected paying for any relief. I tried to find out what they considered the numbers meant, but they simply replied that 5 wasn't high enough. So I started all over again, asserting my pain was 6 and 7, and the procedure was finally approved.)
In Spring of this year, 2018, I started to feel pain coming back to my legs and hips. As we traveled my pain returned, and we returned from our travels a bit early so I could start the process again.
This time my insurance and my Primary Care Physician sent me to Coastal Spine and Pain. They have a Beaches office that is close enough to bike to. Dr. Lee Irwin understood quickly where I was coming from, and got permission for a test epidural, just like I'd had twice before. but this time it didn't provide the short term (days) relief we expected. I went for a bike ride the day after the procedure, and had to cut it short, after 10 miles, due to intense pain in my right thigh. Sigh. But Dr. Irwin wasn't deterred, and did another epidural which was more successful.
The subsequent ablation has greatly enhanced my life. I still have some issues with my hips, and a bit of pain along my sciatica on my right thigh. But 90% of the pain that was always there is gone! I can sleep, I don't wake up in the middle of the night from pain, I can go for long walks or bike rides and only suffer from sore muscles, not random pains. It's silly that I've learned the difference between pain, but tired muscles are distinctly different from nerve pain. And I'm happy to suffer from tired muscles.
Coastal Pain also has a Physical Therapy component, and they were helpful reminding me of the exercises I was taught two years ago, along with a few more. And the exercise helps to keep the pain at bay.
One of the nice things I learned at Coastal Spine was a set of definitions of pain! There is a Makowitz Pain Scale! The definitions are
0. Pain Free
1. Very Minor Annoyance
2. Minor Annoyance
3. Annoying / Distracting
4. Can ignore if really involved in another activity
5. Can not be ignored for more than 30 minutes
6. Can not be ignored for any length of time; Can still work and participate in social activities.
7. Difficult to concentrate; Interferes with sleep; Still functions with effort.
8. Physical activity severely limited; Con read/converse with effort; Nausea and dizziness set in as factors of pain.
9. Unable to speak; Crying / moaning in pain; Uncontrollable near delirium.
10. Unconscious; Passed out due to pain.
Alternator power
But will all our new uses, we thought it would be prudent to make sure we will be able to keep the batteries topped off. Our 160w solar panel does a great job, but not so much in bad weather. So we now have a charge coming from the Sprinter alternator.
Mercedes has a lovely little junction box under the driver's seat. It has three posts, each with a different usage. They each serve a different access to the vehicle's main power source. One gives power all the time, even when the vehicle is off. An example usage for that line is to power a step that comes out when the door opens to make getting in and out easier. The second terminal is for power during ignition, and the third terminal is after ignition is complete and the engine is running.
So the connection is simple in theory: run a line from the house battery under the van to the front seat, then connect it to the third terminal post. And make sure that the power only goes from the terminal back to the house battery, so add a fancy switch to keep the systems separate.
I am a pretty cautious guy, and really don't want to break anything that Mercedes Benz created. So I asked Todd Blackwood, the brilliant owner of Beaches Electric. Todd has been our go-to guy for electrical work on our house, and he has always done impressively quality work. I figured it was worth having Todd look at my plan and make sure that I didn't miss anything. My back also wasn't really wanting me to climb under the van for the wiring.
So Todd came over and did the work with me watching and helping with the odd tool or wire. He made sure that the proper wire sizes were used, and reviewed the documentation I found online. He attached the Battery Doctor securely under the seat and made all the connections in the proper order.
The proof in the pudding was a drive out to White Springs for SBA's Secret Santa weekend. The house batteries stayed full on the drive, and the ARB stayed cold. Yippee!
Monday, November 5, 2018
Second Panel Screw-up
The plan was simple, to put the second panel across the roof in front of our exhaust fan. The panel is 48" long, and since our Sprinter is 72" wide, no problem! Uh,..., yes, there is a problem. While there is copious room for our Queen size bed, the Sprinter gets narrower the farther up, and only after buying a panel did I realize that the flat portion of the roof is only 44" across. Oops! The panel was flexible, but I wasn't convinced it could handle that much curvature, and it would also make it annoyingly visible from below.
Lesson learned? Measure at least once! Even if it means getting a ladder and climbing up to the roof.
One panel will be sufficient for now.
the panel doesn't look too wide, but the roof really is too narrow. |
Tuesday, October 16, 2018
Upgraded Electricity
On our first tour in our van (and the previous tour in our Subaru) we had a Yeti cooler to keep stuff chilled. We bought ice as needed. If you pack a Yeti well, and don't open it too often, stuff will stay cold for days, up to a week. If you are using it to keep the food that you're eating every day cold, taking food out, putting food back in, grabbing a beer out of it, its efficiency is compromised, and we found ourselves buying a bag of ice pretty much every day. Which turns out to be anywhere from $2 to $7.
So we convinced ourselves that it made sense to buy an ARB cooler. It is rugged and efficient, and runs on either DC or AC current. We had a solar panel and a house battery installed to power it, and charge our phones and Kindles. We had low needs, still evolving from our tent camping heritage.
The original solar panel failed first, and it was replaced by a Renogy panel and controller, which worked far more efficiently (and with the Bluetooth module, could be tracked from my phone). and provided enough power for the ARB and more. Soon Sharon was plugging her NutriBullet in each morning to make smoothies. We were also tapping the house battery for inflating our Stand Up Paddleboards. We usually wanted to paddle in the morning, and the house battery was often down to 50% after a night of keeping food cool, so we missed a couple of opportunities.
(We don't have a generator. We spent too many nights tent camping, listening to someone else's generator humming away all night, making a mockery of our outdoor experience. We aren't ready to disturb nearby tent folk if we can find a viable alternative.)
(We could have also started the Sprinter, and with the engine running, power the air pump from the started battery. For a while I didn't want to do this for fear of harming the starter battery, but I've come to realize I was just being over cautious, and it wouldn't worked just fine. Just don't tell Sharon.)
As the Summer trip went on, and cloudy days interspersed intruded occasionally, it took longer to recharge the house battery from the solar panel. The ARB is sensitive to the DC coming from the battery, and takes less power as the battery is depleted. The good news is that it's kinder on the battery, the bad news is that the fridge temp creeps up. So we found ourselves buying ice a few times to keep the food chilled. And the AGM battery kept seeming more and more lame.
So we decided to upgrade! More battery, more solar, more charging.
First off, we figured our AGM battery was pretty much dead. Deep cycle lead acid batteries really don't like discharging more than 50% of their rated power. Pushing them decreases the number of cycles in their lifespan. If you're kind and don't abuse a lead acid, you can hope for maybe 500 power cycles before replacement time comes. We abused ours, and it was dropping to 50% and below from a nominally full charge far faster than it used to.
Rather than simply buy a replacement lead acid AGM, we decided to upgrade to Lithium. The Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries are quite stable (no fires or toxic gas discharge), and they can be discharged to 20% without long term harm, and they have an Order of Magnitude more cycles in them. The minor drawback is that they're about 4-5x more expensive. The problem my research found was finding quality lithium batteries. It seemed most come from China, and quality assurance is an issue. And who wants to pay big dollars for something, only to have it fail with some internal fault a few months down the line?
My research led me to call Batteries Distributors SE, a . Simon proved to be a wealth of information. The phone conversation led to a visit and the eventual purchase of two Relion LiFePO4 batteries to replace the single AGM. And instead of a box under the van, the two batteries sit inside the van in a space that used to hold tools I never used.
Batteries Distributors SE also provided us with a Victron Energy Battery Monitor with a Bluetooth module so I can view details about the batteries from their phone app. The information from the monitor gives me real-time information about the current Voltage, the net Current and Power (positive or negative Amperes and Watts, depending on how much Sun and how much load), the number of Consumed Amp hours, and the Time Remaining based on the current load. Between this and the Renogy app, I have more metrics on our electricity than I know what to do with. It is a joy to monitor how much power is coming off our roof, and how much power is being consumed inside Ernie.
With the two 100Ah Relion batteries, we now have more than 3x the usable power we had last summer (50% of 100Ah is 50Ah, vs. 80% of 200Ah is 160Ah). The next steps are to upgrade the power generation. We have room on the roof for another solar panel, and we could tap into the Sprinter alternator for some power.
Pictures of the new batteries are at https://photos.app.goo.gl/KrfqRtuG2BKnC3Sp8
Wednesday, August 15, 2018
Lessons
- Find a good campsite, stick around longer. We stopped at a lot of campgrounds, usually a state park or provincial park or a national park, with only a few private campgrounds. Too often, we only spent one night and then moved on. The plan was to spend two days (or more) almost everywhere, and we still think that is the better way to travel. Heading West we kept moving because the wind was keeping us off the SUPs; we should have stuck around and kayaked on the SUPs.
- Avoid lakes on weekends. We had no reservations, and finding a campsite on Friday or Saturday was always more of a challenge than other days of the week. And everyone wants to be on the nearby lake on the weekend. We need to pay more attention, and not try to find a campsite on those days.
- Plan our clothes better. We brought clothes for hot weather and cold weather and wet weather. But we didn't plan it out well enough. More t-shirts, more socks, more layers.
- Plan our kitchen better. We brought stemware and napkin holders which we never used, and a fry pan that was a bit small, and a spatula that was too soft. We brought the Sodastream, but not the tonic flavoring.
- Plan our storage better. Having the three bins in the back on a sliding shelf was wonderful, but we need to be more clever about what we put in each. We didn't need to bring the milk crate in one, and we had more water bottles than we needed. Likewise, with a shelf above the three bins, we could cram the SUPs, and then the bikes could fit inside on the other slide. The bikes got way too dirty on the outside rack.
- Version 2, Screens. The back door and sliding door screens were wonderful in areas with mosquitoes, but they weren't perfect. In particular, the back screen suffered from too many gaps by the magnets around the top, and it kept getting in the way if we didn't take it down. With a better seal and a way to roll it up out of the way, it could become a permanent addition. The side screen was closer to perfect, the seams lined up better for a good seal from the flying teeth, but we couldn't leave it up and close the door. Perhaps we can improve on it, too.
- Better power management. We were plugged into shore power for only a few nights at the beginning of the trip; we lived on the house battery the rest of the trip, charged only by our one 150w solar panel. We would have liked to use the InstaPot more. We would have liked to use the ceiling fan some nights or the box fan. We would have liked to pump up the SUPs more often. We need to get a second house battery, and perhaps replace the existing one if it's dying from overuse. There's room on the roof for a second, 100w solar panel to better charge the two batteries. The Sprinter has room in the engine compartment for a second battery, and also a second alternator. It may be that having a second alternator for charging the house batteries might be a good way to ensure we always have the energy when we need it. Ideally we will learn how to sleep comfortably without air conditioning.
- Build a better awning. We used our awning in White Springs, and we gave up on it after one of the magnetic hooks broke, but it wasn't working even before that. Our new plan is to sew-in bar magnets to one end of the fabric to tether one end to Ernie, along with a more robust way to hold up the far end.
- Look into a Cellular Extender. In the US it seems that every State and National Park has minimal cell service, but putting an extender on Ernie's roof and then repeat its signal to our phones is a great way to be connected on the road. They're pricey, but being off the grid so much is unpleasant. What was surprising was how good a signal we got in the Canadian parks.
- Three months is enough. We cut it short a bit because of my back pain, but we were ready to be home anyway. Another week or two would've been doable, but we were ready to call it a good tour, and start preparing for the next one. We needed time and bandwidth to find better boondocking resources, better lighting, better cell, better batteries, better storage, better living.
Monday, August 6, 2018
Stop 59: Neptune Beach FL
We packed Ernie, bid a fond farewell to Greg and Sarah, and Ernie wouldn't start. Uh, oh! I suspect the heavy rains we had the past couple of days left something a bit wet, but after several tries we got a rough idle that smoothed out reasonably quickly. We stopped five miles later for a tankful of diesel, and Ernie started immediately afterwards. And then we drove.
At 541 miles, it was the longest drive of the trip, and the most time on Interstate, and almost all of it on my least favorite, I-95. But the aggravating and inexplicable slowdowns I-95 is known for were non-existent, and the drive was as carefree as we could possibly hope for. I drove faster longer than I did the entire trip, maintaining 70 mph to stay in the flow of traffic for the majority of the interstate drive.
We also had the scariest moment of our trip. Cruising along at 70 in the right lane of I-95 in South Carolina, a white pickup in front of me wandered slowly over to the left lane, and started slowing a bit, while I noticed a semi coming up fast in the left lane behind me. Then, suddenly, the pickup slammed on his brakes to make an illegal U-turn! I swerved over to the breakdown lane to give the semi an escape route, while he locked up his brakes in an impressive cloud of 16 wheel rubber dust. I expect he will have flat spots on all his tires now, but the pickup made it into the median without becoming a hood ornament.
Once we passed Jacksonville International Airport, the looney tune drivers showed their colors swerving in and out of the traffic, or wandering between lanes unaware it was a multi-lane highway, but none required me to lock up my brakes to avoid them. And with it being 4:30 in the afternoon, the lights on Atlantic were timed to move traffic to the Beaches, so we made every light from St John's Bluff.
Ninety six nights, 59 places, 14,944 miles, with an average of 21.2 mpg. A great trip, with many highlights, very few lowlights, many lessons learned, and a long To Do list before we head to Newfoundland next Summer!
Pictures are at https://photos.app.goo.gl/tdNMerszL3Y8C1yHA
Stop 58: Oriental NC
Day 1, August 3.
Driving from a Maryland beach to the Southern tip of the Outer Banks. We got up before dawn to watch the sunrise and walk the beach on a special island before a day's drive. While we eat breakfast, fog covers the beach and campground.
We head back to the mainland, and turn South. Beautiful country, and before long we're paying the $20 toll for crossing Chesapeake Bay on bridges and tunnels. It really is an impressive engineering tour de force. We stop for lunch at a convenient town (I loved my soup and Panini, and Sharon's soup and her shrimp and grits, but she didn't like hers as much). We stopped at a Walmart whose parking lot was so full finding a space for Ernie was challenging for their bathrooms and wine (in NC liquor stores don't have beer or wine).
We finished the fourth Armand Gamache, the Brutal Telling, and listened to podcasts (Stay Tuned with Preet) until we arrived at Greg and Sarah's in Oriental. Let the party start.
With Greg I am the back up tall guy. Sharon's kayak used to be Sarah's. Oh, and Sarah was Sharon's Maid of Honor at our wedding. We started our catching up in their driveway, then on their dock, and then over a delicious dinner and then dessert. Greg and I watched the Red Sox do a number on the Yankees before turning in, the first TV of our trip. The Sox pitcher was pretty awesome.
Day 2, Saturday August 4.
A delightful twenty miles of riding sinuous two lane preceeded breakfast. It felt good pedaling on smooth pavement in my big ring without shifting, letting my mind drift while maintaining an even cadence.
The rest of the day was more restful for me and Greg, while Sharon and Sarah got out more, first on a shopping trip / tour of Metro Oriental, and later offering their bodies to the horde of hungry mosquitoes who hadn't enjoyed as tasty a dinner as we all did. Greg treated us to a lovely boat tour of the nearby waterways, he and Sarah live in a magical place with so much right off their dock.
Day 3, Sunday August 5.
Sunday, the day of rest. Works for me, and with Sharon's boundless energy matched by Sarah's, they enjoyed hikes and paddles and shopping while I was okay with letting my back unwind and relaxing. Another delicious dinner and conversation, and an early night in preparation for the long drive come morning.
Pictures are at https://photos.app.goo.gl/eVpvqiWFJgswzV4x8
Friday, August 3, 2018
Stop 57: Assateague SP MD
Thursday, August 2.
A quick breakfast and we hit the road. The Shenandoah NP weather forecast is rain, so we're heading for the Delaware coast. As we turned to go South a sign appeared, warning of only 11' clearance in a mile. We weren't ready to get rid of the a/c unit yet, so a quick U-turn prompted our first re-route of the day. While I chose the more Westerly route on Gmaps, the re-route tripped taking the fastest route through Harrisburg and Philadelphia. While the road surface was showing its age in patchwork, the traffic was surprisingly well behaved and slowdowns minimal.
Our initial destination (Delaware Seashore SP), across the street from the beach, proved to be a parking spot in a huge lot of RVs, and $50 for the privilege. Uh, No, even if it was the only site available for our one night stand. We drove on, initially to an inland state park, but then Sharon changed our course to Assateague.
Assateague Island is a wild horse refuge. Speed limit is 30 or less, with large signs reminding drivers that the animals have right of way, and you are liable for a citation for any sort of feeding. It is also a barrier island. Assateague State Park is the Northern end of the island. South of the state park is the Assateague Island National Seashore.
The roar of the surf, at your campsite: sweet! We went for a short walk on the beach before getting the bikes out and riding the bike trail from our campground to the national park. It seems the horses roam around the campground. At check-in the ranger gave us the bear warning spiel we've heard so many times, except this was about the horses. As they walk through, eating the grass, every camper takes notice and stays relatively clear. Definitely worth the price of admission. We slept with doors open and screens up.
Pictures are at https://photos.app.goo.gl/xU7hPKEzpbNYtWe47